New pics of the Whitsundays, Cairns and surroundings and Fraser Island | See the pictures

Hey there, in Cairns now. Arrived two days ago and booked into an 8 bed dorm with 4 girls from Niederoesterreich and Zuerich who speak English with each other ALL THE TIME! But well, they’re young … and then there’s this slightly smelly guy sawing trees at night, I think he must have cut half of the rainforest already! Still haven’t really found out who’s in the last bed, a girl is all I can tell. Have only seen her sleeping.
The hostel itself, Gilligan’s is rather a resort than a backpackers with huge pool, hundreds of nice rooms (with their own shower/toilet), a beauty salon downstairs, in-house club (with interesting body-paint competitions) but the kitchens are really poor. Stoves don’t work properly, no cutlery nor pans and pots, and people pinched half our food last night.
Having a good time anyway, went out pretty much each night, sitting downstairs listening to live guitar music and chatting to other people. Everybody here seems really young though …
Cairns itself is somehow not quite as nice as Darwin, not sure why, maybe cos there are too many backpackers, that’s basically all you see. Gonna explore the lagune (a nice pool directly by the sea) today and also check with the Dep. of Immigration to sort out my visa.
Really looking forward to get out of here – tomorrow we’ll pick up a car, quite a downgrade actually. Neither Jucy nor Wicked had any Campers available before the end of next week – too long for us to wait! So we decided to get a little Thrifty instead, got a tent anyway so we’ll get to use it finally!
Heading up north tomorrow, Cape Tribulation and then back down to the Athertons Tablelands which is basically the hinterland of Cairns and has lots of lakes and waterfalls. Then further down the east coast and by the end of the month we should arrive in Brisbane. I’ll keep you posted!
Cheers

Some more pics from the third part of the trip, Darwin and the Top End. Looks like uploading just finished so go ahead and enjoy!
Or read on … sitting in the Youth Shack here in Darwin, trying to recover from a rather big night out at Discovery Club, definitely worth to go there, even on a Sunday night there was party till 4am and we met many people we had seen before such as the chaos crew from England with those I-want-them-too-accents. I love it how you can say fuck and it still sounds posh … would love to hear the Queen swear one day.
Had also a few drinks with some guys and girls from France, Grenoble actually, last night. Had met them earlier already a couple of times during the trip through Kakadu and Litchfield (basically wherever we stopped, they seemed to be, too) but never really talked to them. But they went on to Thailand today so it was their last night in Australia! We celebrated a lot, having Chartreuse shots and rum cokes … my gorge throat is still sore thinking back … uaah! But it was great fun and only knowing them for this one night really was great! Who knows, might see them at some point in France …
Tonight we’ll probably head out for dinner somewhere with David, could join the Brits at the Casino. And then it’s another good-bye for us, off to Cairns tomorrow early morning! Has been a great time in the Northern Territory, met lots of good people and did cool stuff. Now the east coast is waiting | See the pictures

The last day

The last day began already at 4am. We had to be early to avoid the heat at Kings Canyon where we did another walk. The first bit is named Heart Attack Hill Climb and although it’s not really a climb but rather steep stairs I can see why you don’t want to be there in the hot sun during the day. Mind you, even when we started the walk it was already pretty damn hot!
The walk was nice and offered some spectacular views across the canyon. As always Kev explained at various stages historical and geographical facts about the area.
The Garden of Eden offered some shelter from the sun and a water hole as well as a balcony like outlook.
When we were back at the car it was only 10am but incredibly hot in the sun. So the pool at the Kings Canyon Resort was a welcome playground for a while. After a swim and lunch (once again toasted sandwiches) we started the long drive to Alice Springs where the tour would end with a dinner and some drinks at the pub. One last attraction on the way was Jim’s place where Dinky the worlds only singing dingo was loitering in the shade and it took quite some effort to get him to sing. Here a demonstration what he is capable of when not so tired. It was fun to watch him anyway.
Final stop of the tour was Alice Springs, an old telegraph station now developed to a city. Everybody went off to their accommodations and a bit later we all met again for the last supper at Bojangles where you’re dining right next to two pythons (of which I got to hold one at some point). Back at the hostel we sat together till late, laughing and chatting and trying not to think about saying good-bye …

It was an awesome tour, made possible by a group of nice, funny and keen people from all over the world (Ireland, England, France, Korea, China, Italy, Netherlands, New Caledonia and Germany) and a great guide who deserves a big thanks!! I can only recommend this tour to anyone wanting to experience the outback in a fun but also informative way. Thanks also to all of you who were there as well, it was great meeting you and spending time with you!
See ya in another part of the world maybe …

Kata Tjuta

Thanks to a better time managment we actually managed to reach the lookout in time! The sun rose next to Uluru, shining onto the very close Kata Tjuta. Another amazing spectacle not to be missed!
Still early in the day we started a walk through the mounds of Kata Tjuta itself. Three hours and even at 10 in the morning the sun was burning down like you wouldn’t believe! That’s why the walk is actually closed after 11am. Back at the resort we had an early lunch (awesome taccos!) and had a water war with Kev. We also grabbed some fire wood for the night and started the long trip to Kings Creek cattle station where we would stay for the night.
On the way we stopped at a red sand dune from where we could see the salt Lake Amadeus and Ulurus ugly twin brother Mt Connor which looks quite similar but is 4m smaller and not nearly as famous.
The rest of the day we pretty much spent in the bus driving along the MacDonnell Ranges which stretch all the way up to Alice Springs and form an impassable barrier. We arrived at Kings Creek cattle station and David prepared some spaghetti (he is Italian) on his birthday (yum!) and I wandered around the bush trying to get some good shots of the sunset.

Sacred grounds

Another early start, 5 this time. And we still didn’t make it to our planned destination, the lookout to watch the sun rise behind Uluru. So Kev decided to change the program a bit and we started with the base walk around Uluru, a stunning 12 km walk. Many parts of the rock are still enormously important for Aboriginal people and you’re not allowed to take photos in order to respect their tradition. Climbing the mountain is still allowed but many believe it shouldn’t be permitted anymore. We were lucky and the moral decision was taken off our shoulders due to the hot weather (when the expected temperature reaches 36 degrees or it is windy the climb is closed). I could imagine it looks most stunning from the ground anyway rather than at the top.
We even spotted a rare Thorny Devil, a cute little fellow that looks much scarier than it is.
During a short walk guided by Kev we heard many interesting stories from creation time when kangaroos were still able to fly and snakes were big enough to carve rivers into mountains. The information centre offered nice cool drinks and back at the camp we prepared burgers with the lot for lunch and then jumped into the freezing pool and had the afternoon off.
To watch Uluru during sunset we drove to another lookout where we had some prepared snacks and some beer while watching Uluru on one side and Kata Tjuta on the other.

To Uluru

Uaah, 5.30am is an early start. But it was worth it, when we reached the Outcrops of the Stuart Ranges we had amazing views of the landscape in the morning sun, the moon still up. The landscape changed again dramatically, now everything was deep red, just a few green bushes around.
For lunch we stopped at the border of SA and the NT where we had sandwiches and a extensive photo session … the first of a few …
Kev had come up with a game, the wheel of fortune. Each time we stopped the position of one wheel marked a number of the passenger list and the two designated persons had to do funny things like hopping around the bus like a kangaroo.
We also went past an Aboriginal community to visit their art gallery but unfortunately it was abandoned. The community members must have been off to a ceremony or something alike. Those communities are quite traditional, they only have teachers for basic maths and English and medical support. Normally no white people are allowed to enter those areas, heavy penalties apply. I wasn’t allowed to take any photos because Aboriginals think that their soul can’t rest once they’re dead if they are shown around on a photo. The little village was very dirty, lots of wrecked and burnt car corpses and rubbish everywhere. A view little kids waved to us but that was the only sign that there was actually someone living there.
Following the Lasseter Highway, we rushed towards THE mountain, Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock but now officially renamed to its Aboriginal name). Lasseter was a guy who apparently found a huge amount of gold but wasn’t able to carry it all back so he returned to civilization to get more camels. But when he came back to the outback he wasn’t able to find the spot anymore but instead met some Aboriginals which was the first encounter of a white man and Aboriginals. They obviously couldn’t understand each other but he followed them on their way from water hole to water hole and ate what they ate – not quite. At some point he must have eaten some poisonous berries (the desert is full of food but you have to know when you can eat what) and he eventually died. His body was found although there are doubts that it is really his.
Uluru and Kata Tjuta (question: which famous American TV star resembles the shape of Kata Tjuta? Hint: the person is male and laying on his back) are both located within the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. All visitors have to stay in Yulara, a little town and resort now owned by an American company. The resort features accommodation, a pool and facilities. From the local lookout we watched Uluru in the light of the setting sun we actually missed sunset by a few minutes but it was nevertheless amazing.
The day ended with a great stir fry and some beer before a short night in our swags.

The desert from above and below

The day started rather exciting: a scenic flight over the desert! A few of the group decided to change perspective and enjoy a totally different view of the desert. We flew over an area called the painted hills where the morning sun created amazing colors on the rugged surface. A totally recommendable trip!
Before we headed off (Kev had actually managed to fix the tyres) I went to the pub to look for Joergs student card which he had left here, following an old tradition. Almost a fluke but I found it! And of course I left my student card, too.
We had actually met two thirds of the population of William creek – at the moment three people are living there! Apparently they used to be five but two couldn’t bare the crowds anymore and moved away recently.
In the literal middle of nowhere we stopped for some group shots and built a memorial made of one rock for each group member at the side of the road.
Crossing the dog fence a couple more times we approached Coober Pedy, the opal city. 80% of the worlds opals are found here, and 80% of the people live in dug-outs rather than normal houses. Inside those caves the temperature stays at a constant 21 degrees whereas outside temperatures vary from -5 in winter to 55 degrees in summer! While mining in town is not permitted anymore, people still try to find opals by officially extending the house which means here digging another room – and obviously if your lucky you find an opal and become rich!
Coober Pedy also made it to the cinema: because of the vast and moon-like appearance of the place movies such as Pitchblack, Mad Max and Red Planet were shot here.
We had fish ‘n chips for lunch and then joined a museum tour where we learned about the history and practice of opal mining. I didn’t know for example that opals a valued according to the number of colours rather than weight or size! Now I know.
After the tour I went for a stroll around the town, not too easy in the heat but I was rewarded with a huge road train stopping right in front of me. Impressive! I also came across this funny sign which makes totally sense as there are about 1.5 million holes in the ground and they never get closed (someone might want to dig deeper).
After dinner we went to the Underground where we played pool and table soccer (a very rare thing in Australia, actually still the only one I’ve seen here down under so far). We slept under ground that night, in bunks dug deep into a hill.

Crossing the worlds longest fence

7am was wake up time today. After a short morning walk we were back in the bus, Kevin hammering down another dirt road, taking a short side track to a dam which was actually unexpectedly nice!
Back on the highway we stopped at the little coal miners town Leigh Creek where all miners live that work in the nearby mine – the largest coal mine in Australia. Enough coal for another 60 to 70 years apparently exists there. Given the amount of coal which is mined each week (a train with 160 carriers carries 10000 tonnes of coal to Pt. Augusta! Weekly!) that’s pretty impressive. In a cafe we taste some bush food, Quandong Milk Shake and pies. Really yummy!
Another stop gets us to meet Talc Alf, an interesting fellow analysing the alphabet and putting a lot of meaning into letters and names … not my kind of cake but interesting. And a short walk around his weird house in the burning sun quickly showed me that living in this heat for as long as he has been living here could easily result in the development of such theories …
Following the famous Oodnadatta track we’re back on a dirt road for the rest of the day. Whenever you come across another car the driver waves, a very nice gesture I find. A short detour took us to the ruins of the town Farina. In the old days they used to have averything like a cricket ground but now only the bakery is still sort of working (well, and sun bathing is possible, too). The pub there is still licenced (you get the licence for a building, not for a person) so any takers?
Driving through vast desert we came past some Kangaroos resting in the shade of the occasional bush, while Kev was taking it a tad easier on the surprisingly well maintained track. Historical highlight of the day was probably the dog fence that we passed. It’s actually the longest fence in the world, winding along 5300 km through South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales. It was built to keep the dingos out of the southern regions. Dingos are the wild dogs in Australia. They all share the same DNA because one pregnant female dog was brought to Australia and so all Dingos are of the same blood. A couple of them can kill 10000 sheep in two weeks so the fence is maintained very well.
Passing a sculpture park with lots of weird constructions we also visited the salt lake Eyrie South (or at least we saw it in the distance) and a mound spring known as The Bubbler. Even spas exist in the middle of the desert!
After sunset we arrived in William creek where we stopped for the night and noticed two flat tyres. Obviously we only had one spare and the jack stopped working, too. But Kev was quite positive to be able to fix it in the morning.
This night everybody slept under the stars and while Kev and I sat next to the fire we listened to the different snoring noises before going to sleep ourselves.

How it all began

After a night at Grace Emily (a pub down the road from our hostel) and just a couple of hours of sleep we got up early to pack our things and waited outside to be picked up at 7am. Still pretty tired it took a while to get used to sitting in a bus, being driven around rather than driving myself. A nice change though! The group was very mixed and obviously we didn’t know any of the others yet. Some seats were empty but in Coober Pedy four more would join us. But that’s another story.
While Suzan was organising the musical background (well done by the way!) Kev told us from time to time about the regions we were driving through or the places we could see to our left and right. It started all pretty green, hills and trees and didn’t look very different to Victorian landscapes at that stage. But we weren’t really far away from Adelaide yet anyway. Leaving the clouds of the city and the sea behind us we were heading into the Flinders Ranges along the B82, blue sky awaiting us at the horizon.
We stopped a few times on the way in little country town like Clare and Laura (which is famous for its ice cream) where we learned more little details like the reason for the very wide roads in those towns (thanks already to Kev for being a really good guide!). We also passed the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges, Melrose.
While it was getting sunnier and warmer Claudia was fighting hard in her sleep, trying to keep her head upright. Pretty funny to watch but when she woke up next we actually swapped seats so she could sleep leaning onto the window. I wasn’t really tired but really exciting, trying to soak up every little bit of impressions along the way.
Kevin was flying low rather than driving and a s a result we lost a couple of swags off the trailer. For those who don’t know Swags (from the Aussie term Swagman), those neat inventions are basically a very sturdy bag of canvas with an integrated foam mat inside and a zip to open. You can but your sleeping bag inside and ready is your weather and dingo proof bed!
To the tunes of the Australian legend INXS we crossed the historically important Goyder Line which was drawn in 19th century by surveyor general George Goyder marking the 250 millimetre rainfall area from the Eyre Peninsula around to the Riverland. According to his report, based on one year of researching the weather conditions of the region, only south of the line farming would be worthwhile. So those patches of land were sold for a much higher price than everything north of the line. Some settlers tried to prove him wrong and farmed the cheap land north of the line – numerous ruins of those farms witness that Goyder was actually right.
In Quorn we toasted sandwiches on a barbie for lunch and had a rest in the park. Quorn used to be a big railway town (the old Ghan stopped there) with 20 massive pubs (normally towns would have rather two or three).
From now on we were following the old Ghan line into the Flinders Ranges. The soil was slowly turning red, bushes and trees became much sparser and the mountains of the Flinders Ranges were already clearly visible. At an Aboriginal art site, the Yourambulla caves at Kangaroo Mountain where Kev explained to us some of the habits and traditions of Aboriginal people in Australia. After another short stop for a quick toilet run (some really ran!) in Hawker we turned off the Highway onto a gravel road, not far away from our destination for today, Parachilna Gorge.
Pretty much everybody must have woken up from their dreams when suddenly Suzan cranked up the volume, AC/DC at their best, and Kev pushed the pedal all the way through the floor. Bang, a first pothole, only to be followed by sounds that convinced me that we would need more than this one Bus (called Dizzy as far as I remember, what a perfect name in that case) to get through seven days of Kev driving. The second bang sounded like all wheels came off at the same time, but we were still driving so I guess not yet … shooting over a hill I’m sure we were airborne for a while and the loud Whoooaaaah from behind only increased Kev’s effort to destroy the coach! But he was clearly enjoying himself a lot (so was I, would have liked to drive myself, though) and eventually we actually made it to the campsite, an old tuberculosis station where we had a great BBQ for dinner and sat around the fire before Suzan, David, Kev, Claudia and I slipped into our swags to enjoy a night in the Outback under the stars (and what stars I can tell you, amazing! Although the bright full moon spoiled the view a bit).